Every machine leaves the factory with a commissioning report. Every plant receives it, files it, and never opens it again. Then someone loads a new mold, pours in a new resin batch, and hits full speed. The die head cracks. The mold flashes. The parison sags. And everyone blames the machine.
The machine did not fail. The trial run failed.
Low speed trial run is not a formality. It is the only safe way to verify that every subsystem works together before you ask the machine to run at full pressure, full temperature, and full speed. Skip it and you are gambling with a die head that costs more than most cars.
Most operators think trial run means running a few parts at half speed to check if the machine works. That is not trial run. That is a warm-up with extra steps. Real low speed trial run follows a specific sequence at specific speeds and pressures designed to stress each subsystem individually before combining them.
The purpose is to find problems when they are cheap to fix. A screw alignment issue caught at 15 RPM takes 20 minutes to correct. The same issue caught at full speed takes 4 hours and a new screw. A hydraulic leak caught at 50 bar pressure is a seal replacement. The same leak caught at 250 bar is a blown cylinder and oil all over the floor.
Low speed on an HDPE blow molding machine means three things simultaneously. Screw speed drops to 10 to 20 RPM — roughly 15 to 25 percent of production speed. Clamp speed drops to 30 to 50 percent of normal. Blow pressure drops to 4 to 6 bar instead of the full 8 to 12 bar.
These are not arbitrary numbers. They are the minimum values at which each subsystem can be evaluated independently. Below these values, the parison does not form correctly. Above these values, you are already in production mode and problems get expensive fast.
Before you start the extruder, open every hydraulic isolation valve between the power pack and the machine cylinders. Close them one at a time, starting with the mold tilt cylinders, then the mold open/close cylinders, then the parison programmer, and finally the clamping unit.
Turn on the hydraulic pump at low speed. Watch the pressure gauge on each circuit as you open its isolation valve. The pressure should rise smoothly to working pressure within 5 seconds. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, there is a restriction in the line. If it spikes and then drops, there is air in the circuit. Bleed it before you proceed.
Check the oil temperature. It should be above 35 degrees Celsius. Cold oil does not flow properly through the proportional valves, and the clamp speed will be inconsistent. If the oil is cold, let the pump run for 10 minutes with no load before you start the trial.
Bring all barrel zones to 140 degrees Celsius first. Hold for 15 minutes. Then ramp each zone to 80 percent of your target temperature — not full target. Hold for another 10 minutes. The die head goes to 160 degrees Celsius and holds for 10 minutes.
This staged soak is critical. If you bring the die head to full temperature while the barrel is still cold, material backs up in the screw channels and carbonizes. You will spend the next hour cleaning the die head orifice with a copper scraper. The soak prevents that.
Do not start the screw during this soak. Let the thermal mass equalize. Patience here saves you an hour of cleaning later.
Engage the screw drive at 15 RPM. Watch the screw torque on the display. It should climb smoothly to a steady value within 30 seconds. If the torque spikes and holds, the material is not feeding properly. Check the hopper. If the torque is zero, the screw is not gripping — the barrel is too cold. Wait 5 more minutes and try again.
Run the extruder for 5 minutes at 15 RPM with no die head connected. This purges any degraded material from the barrel and confirms that the screw is turning freely. Listen for any grinding or knocking. If you hear metal-on-metal, stop immediately. Something is wrong with the barrel liner or the screw flight clearance.
Engage the die head at low pressure — 20 to 30 bar accumulator pressure. Open the die head orifice slightly and let the parison form. Do not close the mold yet. Watch the parison for 60 seconds.
The parison should be smooth, uniform in diameter, and hanging straight down. If it is sagging to one side, the die head is not centered over the mold. If it has visible thick and thin spots, the die head temperature is uneven. If it is dripping from the orifice, the die head orifice gap is too wide for the current material viscosity.
Adjust what you can at this stage. Center the die head. Tweak the temperature. Change the orifice gap if your die head allows it. Do not proceed to the next step until the parison looks right. A bad parison at low speed means a bad part at full speed.
Bring the mold halves together at 50 percent clamp speed. The mold should close smoothly with no hesitation. If the clamp slows down or stops partway through, the platen is not parallel. Check the alignment pins. If the clamp closes fast and slams, the deceleration setting is too aggressive. Reduce it.
Hold the mold closed for 10 seconds at zero blow pressure. Watch the clamping pressure gauge. It should hold steady. If it drifts down by more than 50 kN over 10 seconds, you have a hydraulic leak in
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